The ball season comes with a dress code that calls for precision, refinement and respect for its rules. Black tie leaves little room for improvisation, instead favouring considered choices of fabric, cut and detail. What does contemporary evening elegance look like today, and which directions are worth noting this season?
Trend 1: Fabric as the primary expression of elegance
The fundamental rules of black tie remain unchanged; what evolves is the way we work with them. The most important decision is always the choice of fabric.
Alongside classic smooth wool, velvet holds a well-established place within the black-tie dress code. Noble and visually rich, it feels entirely natural in a ballroom setting, offering a sense of occasion without compromising formality. A velvet dinner jacket in black or deep midnight blue, for example, is a choice that resists fleeting trends while still feeling thoroughly contemporary.
Velvet, particularly in contemporary colour tones, has also been embraced by prominent figures from the Czech cultural scene. Singer Milan Peroutka appeared at Ples jako Brno 2025 in a dark blue velvet tuxedo, while Bachelor Jan Solfronk opted for a deep red dinner jacket crafted from fabrics by the traditional Italian mill Redaelli Velluti, in line with the dress code black tie with a touch of rose.
An equally compelling option is a fabric with a subtle ceremonial motif—one that does not draw attention to itself, but instead lends the ensemble an unexpected depth through detail.
A dinner suit featuring a jacket made from Ermenegildo Zegna cloth was worn at Ples jako Brno by presenter Libor Bouček.
Trend 2: The lapel as a matter of proportion and expression
The character of a dinner suit today is defined not by colour, but by line. The peak lapel, with its sharp upward point, lends the silhouette structure and a sense of quiet authority, while the shawl lapel works with fluidity and softness. Both options are formally correct; what matters most is their proportion and execution.
A well-designed lapel subtly enhances the figure and signals that the entire ensemble has been conceived with intention.
Actor Filip Březina appeared at the Czech Lion Awards in a classic made-to-measure dinner suit. The shawl lapel softens the overall expression of the ensemble. Photo: Kristyna Policek
Trend 3: Midnight blue as an evening alternative to classic black
Black remains a constant, yet midnight blue continues to hold a privileged position this season. Under artificial light, it appears deeper than black, lending the outfit a subtle differentiation that reveals itself only at closer range.
It is a choice for those who wish to remain within the rules without appearing uniform. In recent years, swatch books have also featured very deep shades of dark green, purple and burgundy.
Michael Petr, a world-renowned dancer and dance instructor, wearing a dark blue GALARD dinner suit for the Miss World South Africa event.
Revisited: the right components as the foundation of the ensemble
A dinner suit is not defined by jacket and trousers alone. The ensemble is held together by details that may appear subtle at first glance, yet are essential:
- trousers with satin braid, paired with a black or red silk cummerbund at the waist,
- a dress shirt with double French cuffs, a concealed button placket, a classic collar and, optionally, a pleated bib front,
- a black, hand-tied silk bow tie,
- patent leather lace-up shoes worn with high socks.
A contemporary approach to black tie allows for a personal touch, though always with restraint. Expression lies in the texture of the fabric, a discreet accessory or the way individual elements are combined. Less is truly more, which is why careful attention should be paid to the choice of:
- cufflinks and shirt studs,
- a pocket square in the jacket breast pocket,
- or, on occasion, an elegant brooch.
The dinner suit created for Petr Vondráček, who co-hosted the Czechoslovak Ball in 2024 alongside actress Vica Kerekes, appeared entirely classic at first glance, yet was subtly enriched by an unconventional lining. Personal character, too, can be tailored into a garment in this way.
Black tie is built on balance. A single, well-considered accent is always more powerful than an attempt to impress at all costs. In recent years, there has also been a growing view that, particularly in menswear, the black-tie dress code should allow at least a touch of creativity. Opportunities to wear a dinner suit and stand out alongside one’s partner are far fewer than they once were, which is precisely why the choice of attire for a formal occasion deserves careful thought—one that both fulfils the dress code and elevates it.
An excellent example of a creative approach to the smoking is the ball outfit worn by Milan Peroutka. He complemented his tuxedo with Manolo Blahnik loafers and jewellery by ALO Diamonds. Photo: Ondřej Rychnavský
The ball season is therefore an opportunity to dress with an awareness of tradition as well as contemporary taste. Black tie does not call for originality at any cost, but for confidence in one’s choices and excellence in execution. This is where its timeless strength lies. A well-chosen cut, appropriate fabric and considered details come together to create an ensemble that feels natural, refined and entirely fitting for an evening of this kind.
Book an appointment at one of our salons — we will create a new piece for the season ahead or review your existing dinner suit to ensure it still fits impeccably.